Sometime, somewhere a textile artist meticulously made the block prints that created the lavishly decked-out elephants and heavily detailed urns on a scrap of vintage material sitting on clothes designer Chandni Thawani’s worktable. This fragment of the past has traveled to her Stamford home from Andheri, India, a suburb of Mumbai, where Thawani’s grandmother once owned a tailor shop.
Thawani, 25, traces her finger across the pattern. How can you throw this out, she asks rhetorically. And she can’t, caught up in the craftsmanship behind it. She carefully places it on a mound of silk, cotton and chiffon remnants that have inspired a portion of her fashion line.
Small purses and bags, headbands, turbans and limited runs of shirts and pants have been created using leftover material from the shop, now closed, or saris once worn by her mother, grandmother and her great-aunt.
“This was once a sari, and so were the pants,” she says, holding up a loose-fitting kurta top and trousers made from richly patterned dark brown material. The sleeves feature a border made of bands of orange, brown and darker brown — a ghost of the sari’s hem. The patterns and borders can make reuse a challenge, but the end result offers Thawani satisfaction by honoring her Indian roots and giving second life to something beautiful that might otherwise find its way into a garbage heap.
For the past year, Thawani, a graduate of Parsons the New School for Design, has been building her clothing and accessories line, Chaandu, which has an online presence through chaandu and Etsy. When she is not dipping into her reserve of remnants, she is tracking down contemporary Indian fabric that puts a modern twist on the styles and techniques that have guided Indian textile design for centuries.
“When we used to visit India, I would just randomly buy two yards of this and two yards of that,” she says. “I thought one day I’ll make something pretty out of this. I fell in love with the textiles and prints and the way they were made.
“I went to India last year and I fell in love with this ikat fabric, but in a geometrical kind of way,” she says, shuffling around some hangers to find a black-and white-patterned dress. “To see this you wouldn’t know it is Indian, but it is. The idea is that it looks so modern and very cool.”
The fabric of India is having a bit of a moment, even if it is a craft that has had fans for centuries. Through January, the Victoria and Albert Museum in London will be featuring “The Fabric of India.” On display are textiles that have long woven together global trade routes and served as sacred cloths. It comes on the heels of a generation of new designers who utilize traditional techniques — the intricate weaving, innovative dying techniques and ornate decoration — in contemporary fashion.
Hand-block prints and hand-painted motifs, bright colors and fine embroidery are utilized in Western-inspired styles. One of the first on the scene was Manish Arora, an internationally known New Delhi-based designer and one of Thawani’s favorites. His celebrity fans include Rihanna, Nicki Minaj and Heidi Klum.
“… I fell in love with this (Geometrical) ikat fabric … To see this you wouldn’t know it is Indian, but it is. The idea is that it looks so modern and very cool.”
Thawani has inventoried and documented her never-ending bags of vintage material. Pointing to a swatch embedded with dozens of glittering rhinestones, she says, “This was an extra piece probably brought in for a sari. And it wasn’t used, so do we keep it, how do I use it, do we throw it out?”
She thinks for a moment — a strong indication the material has a brighter future. “I haven’t found a purpose for it yet, but when I do, I’ll start making something.”
Fashion, with its boomeranging trends, is ever so fickle. Trends often come and go only to return again but with a slight nuance - a subtle update that makes your pre-loved incarnation miss the rebooted mark. But if you’re a hoarder who hangs on to everything, you’ll be delighted to hear that the comeback of the choker hasn’t changed one bit.
“Like hemlines, necklace lengths go up and down,” explains Sophie Quy, fine jewellery buyer. “The choker is the natural evolution after the long pendant of a few years ago, followed by the trend for layering minimal, smaller chains and short pendants.”
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What this means is farewell to the statement necklace, hello to the skinny bit of fabric or leather that adorned many necks in the 90s. Perhaps the most non-exclusive piece of jewellery ever made (get inspired to make your own here), we’ve witnessed black chokers pop on red carpets, completing outfits and decorating long necks like a firm punctuation mark.
Surprisingly, they look good with pretty much everything – be it a masculine tuxedo jacket or a romantic Valentino gown. Some younger, more experimental dressers have been playing with the extendable tattoo-style chokers (which we’re not advocating) - probably because they aren’t old enough to remember them the first time around.
We’re fans of the less grungy, more ladylike concoctions. French fashion houses Chanel and Lanvin featured them as part of their spring/summer 2016 catwalk collections; when the former does a choker, it comes with a pretty, beaded camellia.
Chokers this time around aren’t solely the preserve of gothic night owls, however. See British model Rosie Huntington-Whiteley’s daytime adoption of an almost scarf-like choker to update her casual uniform of Breton top and skinny jeans.
Quy explains how: “For a customer who doesn’t want to do 90s top to toe, adding a simple choker to a look goes a long way to creating the right aesthetic.” But for a woman who isn’t concerned with following trends, it is a refreshing alternative to diamonds and chains. We predict chokers to become even more prolific - better get slathering that night cream tight down to one’s clavicle then.
True story: On a recent trip to North Carolina, it took my 69-year-old father, seven-year-old niece, and me a solid half-hour to build a decent backyard campfire for s'mores. OK, I may not be the greatest outdoorswoman, but damn if I'm not resourceful. I whipped up a DIY sheet mask using just four kitchen ingredients and a set of instructions from Sarah Lee, one of the co-founders of Korean beauty e-tailer Glow Recipe (and perfect-skin authority). And it went pretty well.
The best part about the concoction is that it's made mostly from items you probably always have on hand in your pantry and fridge: honey, yogurt, and eggs. But its star ingredient is a bit of a wild card, at least for Americans: Job's tears. (No, this is not what results when the creator of Apple gets sad. My mistake.) It's a grain, similar to barley or millet, that's hugely popular in Korea when brewed into a tea (you can buy it in pre-ground, just-add-water powder form, similar to those instant-breakfast drink mixes). According to Lee, its massive popularity is due in part to the belief that it clarifies skin and keeps it looking youthful. "Job's tears has anti-aging, skin-softening, and brightening effects," she explains. "It's rich in vegetable proteins and essential amino acids that can help achieve a naturally luminous complexion."
Dermatologist Joshua Zeichner vouches for the grain's skin-improving power: "Job's tears is rich in antioxidants that help reduce skin inflammation and minimize damage from UV light, smoking, and pollution. This can lead to brighter, smoother skin." No wonder pairing it with antibacterial honey and exfoliating yogurt and egg yolk for this DIY mask is also common in Korea. "Manuka honey is particularly helpful in treating a variety of skin issues, from acne to aging," says Zeichner. "It contains skin-soothing antioxidants and has humectant properties that hydrate the skin." As for the yogurt, it "contains lactic acid, which is alpha-hydroxy acid," explains dermatologist Melissa Piliang. "AHAs can gently slough off the very outer layer of skin. Yogurt also contains antioxidants, which can reduce irritation from the acids." And though the egg yolk "makes the texture tackier," according to Lee, it's also a mild, natural retinoid, due to its high vitamin A content.
Here's exactly what you need to make the mask:
Ingredients
• Powdered jobs tears (I found a pack of 16 sachets on Amazon for $17.59)
• Dry sheet masks (Lee recommends using plain old gauze and cutting out mouth and eye holes; I found a pack of 90 dry cotton pre-cut sheets on Amazon for $5.84)
• Honey (of the manuka variety, if you can find it!)
• Yogurt (any kind)
• One egg
Steps
1. Blend together a scoop of Job's tears (my instant-tea version came in individual packets, so measuring was easy), a tablespoon of honey, two to four spoonfuls of yogurt, and one egg yolk. It should resemble a thick, oatmeal-colored paste. (I won't lie: I took a tiny taste, and it was delicious.)
2. Pat a thin layer of the mixture over your face for stickiness, then press the dry sheet mask on top and load the remaining mixture on top of the cotton sheet.
3. Leave the mask on for 15 to 20 minutes (Lee suggests for 30 to 40). I have big plans for those remaining 89 sheet masks (soaking them in things like glycerin, essences, such as the Vital Treatment Essence, facial oils, and serums, for more DIY-masking experimentation), but I do wish for this particular recipe that I'd gone for the gauze. The cotton sheet masks are a little on the thick side, so it didn't feel as if the thick mixture was penetrating as much as I would have liked.
4. Peel off the sheet and rinse away remaining mixture. The tiny, gritty granules in the formula will provide an extra bit of exfoliation without upsetting sensitive skin.
Now, I don't mean to brag, but check out that rosy, fresh face. (And yes, this photo is completely un-edited and un-filtered.) The mask gave my usually cadaverous complexion a glow-y, soft halo effect. This might be my new #sundayfunday routine (complete with a cup of hot Job's tears tea—grainy-tasting, slightly sweet, and weirdly satisfying), but I'm also excited to play around with additional recipes. "You can also alternate the Job's tears with different tea powders, like green tea—it's an antioxidant, so it protects skin, and also soothes and calms," says Lee. One DIY sheet-mask down, 89 to go.
Kylie Jenner's Lip Kit broke the internet yesterday following its release at 12pm.
The 'Keeping Up With the Kardashians' star, 18, made her line of matte lip liners and liquid lipsticks available for purchase at 12pm and, shortly afterwards, her website LipKitByKylie crashed due to the influx of traffic.
The line - which features three colours named Dolce K, Candy K, and TrueBrown K - sold out within minutes, leaving fans, eager to replicate Kylie's plump pout, disappointed.
The stunning products retailed at $29 but are now being sold on eBay for 10 times the price at $255 for just one colour.
Kylie's decision to release a lip line came just months after she was slammed with criticism for undergoing a non-surgical cosmetic procedure to plump up her pout.
The brunette babe was forced to reveal she has had temporary lip enhancement injections on an episode of their family E! reality TV show in May after the #KylieJennerChallenge, which saw young fans attempt to mimic her lip look by sucking on the rim of a cup, went viral.
Earlier this year, she confirmed: ''I have had temporary lip fillers. It's just something I wanted to do.''
Her mother Kris Jenner, 60, previously admitted she didn't give the reality TV star, who was 17 at the time, permission to get lip fillers and was fuming when she found out.
When the latest exhibit at New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute opened last week, celebrating the style of French fashion figure Jacqueline de Ribes, an important guest was missing: The 86-year-old de Ribes herself.
In the wake of the horrific Paris terror attacks, “she felt it would be unseemly to celebrate,” said the exhibit's curator, Harold Koda. Despite canceling her trip, however, de Ribes noted in a statement that she hopes the show “will represent the joy associated with the freedom of creation.”
De Ribes, born to aristocratic parents in 1929, was a unique figure in fashion for much of the 20th century, beginning in her '20s when she was already landing on best-dressed lists. She was famously photographed by Richard Avedon and termed a “swan” by Truman Capote. Not content to simply wear the designs of others, she often had dressmakers make her own designs for her, and, in the 1980s, she came to New York and launched her own design business, despite the perception that aristocrats like her (she's a countess) didn't get involved in commerce.
In a walk through the exhibit earlier this week, Koda explained that it was hard to find early dresses that de Ribes wore, because she gave clothes to charity through the 1960s. Luckily for the museum, she kept many of her clothes from 1975 onward — her haute couture gowns and her own designs. Still, Koda said, “It was hard to convince her to do the show, because there's a side of her that wanted to keep things private.” Koda convinced her, though, by proposing that the show focus on her creative arc, from a little girl who made costumes, to the haute-couture client who always had changes made to garments she bought, to the eventual designer she became.
“She was always making things,” Koda said.
“Jacqueline De Ribes: The Art of Style” is composed of items from her personal collection, half designed by others — like Yves Saint Laurent, Emanuel Ungaro and Valentino — and half of her own design. After passing by a giant black-and-white Avedon portrait of de Ribes, in profile with a long black braid, visitors will spot a photo of de Ribes and her sister, as little girls, dressed in fringed hula skirts that Jacqueline made from shredded potato sacks.
A daywear section shows de Ribes was an early devotee of the current concept of “mixing high and low,” combining elegant pieces with sporty streetwear, and also mixing designers — some 20 years before it became the norm. She was an aficionado of down winter coats, and there's a Norma Kamali “sleeping bag coat” on display, in a pinkish red, worn over de Ribes' self-designed light-pink sweater dress and brown sable hat.
Nearby, in the cocktail section, there's a sparkly summer evening dress by Saint Laurent from 1969 — short, with fringes, beads, pearls and sequins. It's one of the few items that de Ribes did not change at all — however, she pairs it here with a dramatic “motoring veil,” meant to keep dust out of one's face. “She remembered that she had it somewhere,” Koda said. “She remembers everything.”
A set of ruffled, Grecian-style gowns in three different colors — orange and two shades of blue — shows she was nothing if not practical. “Saint Laurent was closing the couture atelier, and so she got a call asking if she wanted anything. She finds her favorite dress from 1983 and has it done in two other colors,” Koda said.
De Ribes' own designs — except for her elaborate costumes for balls, and the like — are simple. “She likes ornament,” Koda said, “but the best description was in Women's Wear Daily: ‘Spare ribs.' A kind of simplicity. She loves drama, but in the end she's very disciplined.”
The show also features a set of casual photos, several showing de Ribes engaging in sports. A photo of her waterskiing on one ski caught the curator's eye. “Jacqueline,” Koda recalls telling her. “I'm surprised that you're wearing a turban in that photo!”
“Harold,” she told him. “I had no intention of falling in!”
Koda also said de Ribes feared the show might not have universal appeal. “Will young girls be interested?” he said she asked him. “Does anyone want to be elegant, rather than sexy?”
She might as well have looked back at one of her own quotes, one that's written on a wall at the exhibit: “I totally disagree with Christian Dior, who once said that one could never look sexy and be elegant at the same time,” the quote reads. “It is just more difficult, that's all.”
Trends can often lead to some serious fashion faux pas (think Britney and Justin’s take on double denim); fortunately though, these hiccups are short lived in apparel and move on with the next trend. However, the moment where one questions “what was I thinking?” never seems to arrive when it comes to footwear. Regardless of what is presented on the catwalks, the ‘ugly’ shoe phenomenon remains, bolstering sales of what is often an extraordinarily comfortable product that severely lacks in aesthetic design. Crocs and Uggs, for example, universally acknowledged as unattractive shoes, reported net sales of 832 million US dollars and 2.0 billion US dollars in 2014, respectively. What can brands take from these highly successful, albeit unsightly, footwear trends?
Comfort trumps fashion
Summer 2015 saw the reappearance of Birkenstocks as a wardrobe staple; the footwear brand that has long provided grandmas the world over with appropriate summer sandals now has more fashion credentials than Kate Moss. Similarly, LL Bean duck boots have been renowned for selling out as the practical outdoor boot falls back into fashion. Widespread adoption of a particular product does not always stem from the activities of leading brands, but rather occur as a result of the cyclical nature of fashion.
Vintage trends and ironic hipster cohorts often take products that were once painfully unfashionable and make them ‘cool’, as seen with the resurgence of footwear brand Hush Puppies and alcoholic drinks such as Bourbon. While a nod from the fashion industry can propel a brand into the premier league, generating a spike in revenue, the majority of these footwear brands perform well year round, and what they all have in common is the ability to provide consumers with practical, comfortable footwear.
Ath-leisure’s roots in footwear
The over-arching macro trend of comfort has long been present in the footwear industry; however, in recent years, it seems to have become ever more prevalent with the proliferation of ath-leisure. Lily Allen was clearly ahead of her time in 2005 by pairing her Nike Air Max 90s with every outfit; in 2015, sneaker fever has reached an all-time high, as casual dressing takes on a new role in consumers’ lives. Yoga pants are now appropriate attire for a trip to Starbucks, and Fashion Week attendees have shunned skyscraper heels in favour of bunion-proof adidas Stan Smiths.
Sports-inspired footwear increased at a value CAGR of 7 percent over 2009-2014, while the overall footwear category increased at a CAGR of 6 percent over the same period. Additionally, an upsurge in performance-led products continues to drive growth, as consumers seek technically advanced products for their everyday activities as well as sports participation. The functionality and comfort of sports footwear is both desirable and on trend; this is particularly true for running shoes. The Nike Roshe collection is now the fashionistas version of the Ugg.
Instagram dictates fashion
As the industry evolves with the digital age, social media platforms are not only considered vital advertising tools but now dictate what is considered fashionable. The ‘ugly’ shoe trend highlights the power and lucrativeness of mass consumer trends, in comparison to the fads featured on the fashion catwalks. Images of off-duty models and celebrities wearing shoes such as Crocs, Uggs and Birkenstocks are no longer restricted to gossip magazines, but rather posted on social media by individuals themselves.
Platforms such as Instagram are filled with user-generated content and street style images that appear far more authentic than advertising campaigns and allow the user to dictate the narrative by detailing the benefits of wearing a particular product. Endorsement by high-profile celebrities will certainly generate a significant amount of brand exposure; however, beyond that, much of these brands’s commercial success is due to their unprecedented comfort level, which is something for footwear brands to keep in mind.
Mohammed Javed Khan, a budding designer, adores natural fabrics. Not a fan of ‘make-believe’ designs, he creates simple yet classic men’s wear that use handpicked, quality fabrics. His debut collection, ‘Mr Bowerbird’, has been inspired by nature and has an affinity towards simplicity, quality and artistic touch-ups.
With natural fabrics being the highlight, the designs boast of fits that are modern and patterns that are subtle. He calls his designs ‘travel friendly’ and explains, “My collection promotes travelling and exploring. The T-shirts are designed to keep maps, passports, documents, sunglasses, to name a few, easily and there are secret pockets too. Tweed blazers have compartments for boarding passes, mobile and have loop track for ear plugs to keep them untangled. The denims and chinos are comfortable during travels because of the use of stretch fabrics.”
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The upcycled products are the collection’s highlight and it uses ‘boro’ technique — a Japanese technique for mending clothes — which has a lot of indigo patchwork, manual handwork and upcycled materials. “Making use of this technique, I want to let my clients know how repairing makes a garment unique,” he says. An award-winning student of fashion designing, he worked for seven years as a design manager for a fashion brand and now will be displaying his collection in ‘Myntra’.
He looks up to the ace Belgian fashion designer Dries van Noten and opines, “I am constantly aware of the evolving trends in the field but I do not really follow them. When you are into ‘fast fashion’, it might be important to follow trends but I am a lover of ‘slow fashion’ and following trends is not my cup of tea.”
He disagrees that designing is a part of a glamorous industry and comments that the industry needs continuous back-breaking effort like any other corporate job. “It is a misconception that fashion designing is a glamorous job. Yes, the designs do become glamorous, but there are problems that arise and one needs to solve them on daily basis to sustain in this field. It is the passion that keeps you going and I find immense satisfaction when designing something and keeping my aesthetic fundamentals in place.”
He wishes to promote his brand worldwide and says, “I definitely see ‘Mr Bowerbird’ expanding globally.” Calling Bengaluru a “blessing for budding creative heads”, he opines, “The City is a great place to get one’s dream job, just as I have found mine. It is a smart city with self-made people who encourage unconventional initiatives. It has given me the opportunity to feel like the owner of a sustainable business plan than just being called a designer.”
THE secret to perfect makeup is flawless skin. That’s the advice of Lancome’s national elite makeup artist Marc Sinclair.
The pro, who comes from Dumbarton and now travels around the country working on shoots and big events such as the Baftas, was back home in Scotland last week for a visit to Debenhams in Silverburn to give a masterclass to Lancome customers.
While he was there, he took time out to pass on some tips.
Christmas party makeup doesn’t have to be, he says, if you get the basics right.
“I’m here to show how celebrities look as good as they do. That shouldn’t be a privilege, it’s not just for people with money. Everyone should be able to look their best,” he says.
To get our model ready for a party, he started with a Clarisonic sonic cleanser to prep the skin, and then Marc applied toner, Lancome’s award-winning Advanced Genifique serum, moisturiser and primer.
“I buffed on Teint Idole Ultra 24H foundation all over the face, avoiding the eye area, then concealer around the eyes to contour and the gorgeous Blush Subtil Palette to add colour, definition and shape to the skin.
“Perfect skin is for everyone. A flawless complexion is timeless and great for any occasion.”
On the eyes, Marc used the Lancome limited edition La Palette 29 Faubourg Saint Honore on the eyes. With three golden tones and three purple tones, it offers the perfect colour choice, whatever your look, as well as two red lip colours.
“I used gold on the lids and purple into the creases, smoked out to elongate the eye,” he explains.
“I then used Sourcils Gel, our waterproof brow gel to add definition to the brows, and some liquid liner to add a flick, finishing with Grandiose mascara for full volume and that false lash effect.”
A slick of nude tinted lip balm in Shine Lover completed the look.
“It’s really easy to do at home but if someone is struggling, that’s what our makeup artists here at Lancome are for: they give lessons and tutorials at every counter,” says Marc.
He says if you are going straight out to a Christmas party from the office, reach for a universal palette – all Lancome’s palettes are paint by numbers, complete with the brushes and tools needed, so they couldn’t be easier to use.
Blow-dryer anxiety is a thing, and I have it. See, I have curly hair, and since most of the top dryers don't come with a diffuser attachment, they leave my hair a sad, stringy, stretched-out mess. Well, I say enough with the silky-straight oppression. If you aren't into air-drying, here are the three best tools you need to dry your curls.
The all-in-one. The diffuser attachment that comes with the Panasonic Nanoe Moisture Infusion Hair Dryer has tons of conelike projections that cup hair and help coax it into spirals. The dryer has two speeds and three heat settings (my fine curls do best with a low-speed, high-heat combo). The ionic technology minimizes frizz. And the cool-shot button actually makes the air feel cool instead of just less hot. "This one is my current favorite," says hairstylist Tippi Shorter. "Hair feels soft and not crunchy, even when using gel. And the nose is short and perfect for working on your own hair."
The traveler. It's hard to find a dryer with a diffuser at even the toniest hotels (trust me, I’ve called and asked), so that means BYO. If packing your own blow-dryer sounds unbearable, then meet your new best friend: Solano Universal Diffuser. It snaps on to most dryers and does an infinitely better job of defining curls that those dinky sock diffusers. While it is a bit large and clunky, it's not heavy, and that's a small price to pay for great-looking spirals. For regular use, hairstylist Anthony Dickey likes connecting the diffuser to a Turbo Power TwinTurbo 3200 dryer, which is a workhorse pro favorite.
The hands-free. Dickey is also a fan of tabletop dryers. "You can dry your hair while you watch Empire on your phone,” he says. “They don't blow the hair around and will dry the perfect curl or wave without frizz. You can also sit under one for ten minutes and then diffuse or air-dry the rest.” The Conair Pro Style 1874 Watts bonnet dryer, with its plastic construction and carrying handle, kind of reminds me of the Caboodles I carted around during my middle-school dance-recital days, but it sets up easily and really does free up your hands for screen time. Hair isn't buffeted around under the hood, so it cuts down on frizz. Although you won't get the same tight, lifted effect that you will from a traditional diffuser, a tabletop dryer is perfect for zapping the moisture out of set styles. Just watch out you don't blow a fuse, which happened after I left mine on for 20 minutes.
It was the show that rocked fashionable Dubai.
“…brought audible sighs and the kind of ovation you’ve come to expect from him,” lauds the Gulf News. “Never fails to disappoint, his collection was the highlight of the show,” crows Senatus.
Saudi Gazette proclaims him one of the 10 stars of Fashion Forward. Arabian Business gushes, “We absolutely love the element of surprise.”
Last October, Filipino designer extraordinaire Michael Cinco, known worldwide for his elaborate, fantastical, masterful couture creations, pulled another sartorial surprise: Debuting on the Fashion Forward runway evening wear embellished with prints duplicating the stained glass windows of grand churches. The suits, trousers, and gowns featured elaborate handpainted artwork depicting Biblical themes, colors vibrantly splashed on materials sewn with generous crystals. It was breathtaking as it was startling. The grand finale was a massive, intricate, handpainted cape that took the audience’s breath away.
At the close of what might be Dubai’s most-attended social event, Cinco gave homage to his silent collaborator, a young, 27-year-old Filipino artist who worked alongside the designer for months leading up to the fashion show. “The impalpable dream of Sainte-Chapelle… Thank you to Omar Flores,” he wrote on Facebook.
It has been a long way from the street to the runway for Omar Flores. At 16, he peddled his paintings along EDSA to support his artistic ambitions. At 18, to get an income, he got into restoration work, retouching and finishing paintings by well-known Filipino artists. Around the same time, he sold 20 of his own paintings for almost free to art collectors who would tell him that he shouldn’t charge high because he was an unknown.
“Hindi ka Pinoy kung hindi mo masubukan maglakad sa kahabaan ng EDSA para magbenta ng painting (You’re not a Filipino painter if you have not experienced walking the length of EDSA peddling your paintings),” he tells MB Lifestyle in an earlier interview. “Ginawa ko iyon dahil wala akong pamasahe at walang benta kahit isa (I did that because I was broke and couldn’t sell a painting).” Of the restoration work, he says, “I did not even know that that kind of work generated a lot of income for the artists; and they would just give me loose change. It grated on my ears to be told, again and again, that because I was a no-name artist, I couldn’t ask or demand for a high price.”
Omar has since worked with some of the industry’s best, putting up a show with actor Piolo Pascual—whom, as a young upstart, he relentlessly pursued as his subject and then later on collaborated with for an exhibit.
WHAT WAS YOUR EARLIEST MEMORY OF BEING INTERESTED IN THE ARTS?
I started painting very young. When I was about four years old. I copied the pictures from the books I saw; some of them were Leonardo and Michaelangelo paintings. I was fascinated with the art of the Renaissance period. But I didn’t realize that I was good at it. I actually thought that everybody could paint. No one told me until I was in school, when people started paying attention. That’s when I realized that I had this gift.
WHAT’S YOUR CREATIVE PROCESS LIKE? HOW DO YOU START AN ARTWORK/PIECE?
First, I visualize what I would want to do, in terms of concept and materials. Sometimes the creative process comes out naturally, especially when I’m in the mood to paint. I get inspiration from places I go to and the people I meet in my daily life.
PLEASE TELL US ABOUT YOUR COLLABORATION WITH MICHAEL CINCO. HOW DID IT COME ABOUT?
Michael and I have been planning this stained glass of Sainte-Chapelle collaboration since last year. Michael told me to paint on his personal jacket and dress for our first collaboration. And then, later on, we came up with the entire concept and idea. We are both Catholic and hold the same faith, so our ideas matched. From one simple concept we worked on—and arrived at—the same vision.
WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE WORK IN THE COLLECTION AND WHAT WERE YOUR INSPIRATIONS IN THE COLLABORATION?
Each painting tells a story, and each is unique in different ways: The image of Jesus Christ, the angels, the old rose windows. I went to different churches in Manila and Quezon City to observe the different styles of stained glass. I also did some research about old churches in Europe. All of the pieces are special to me.
WHAT WAS MICHAEL’S INVOLVEMENT IN YOUR PAINTINGS?
He always guided me; he is my mentor. And we understood each other. That, I think, is the most important part in any collaboration. That’s how things are able to come together smoothly.
TELL US ABOUT THE PIECES YOU MADE. HOW MANY PIECES AND HOW LONG DID YOU MAKE EACH PIECE?
Ten pieces. I made six jackets, a pair of trousers, three dresses, and a cape for the finale.
The six jackets took me two months and the cape, a full month. I made the cape just one month before the show. The three dresses I painted just two weeks before the show. Even when I arrived in Dubai, a week before the show, we were still trying to finish work on one dress.
WHAT WAS THE MOST CHALLENGING PART IN YOUR COLLABORATION WITH MICHAEL? WHAT WAS THE MOST ENJOYABLE?
I never once considered the collaboration as work, because doing this with him is the best experience I’ve ever had. The challenging part was the time limit. Michael always challenged me and he brings out the artistry in my works. He wants to see if I could deliver. And I think I was able to do it. Seeing the result, I realized that I made what I wanted to make.
I really enjoyed going to the different churches for research, as it inspired my art more. I feel very lucky to be part of the show.
WHAT’S NEXT FOR YOU?
It’s hard to tell what will happen. Whatever comes my way will be enough. I didn’t imagine that painting and all the challenges in my life would lead to where I am now. It has been quite a journey.
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Halloween is just around the corner and no one embraces the spirit of the occasion as much as model Heidi Klum. The former Victoria’s Secret angel is known for the outrageous looks she sports at her self-hosted annual Halloween Ball, where she usually transforms herself to the point of unrecognition. From dressing up as a skinless corpse to a gorilla to a life-sized butterfly, Heidi goes the extra mile to get into character.
The German beauty devises her outfit months before Halloween and it takes an Oscar-winning make-up team to get her look together, complete with the use of prosthetics, body paint, wigs, customised costumes and accessories. In a 2013 interview with Parade magazine, Heidi said, “I take Halloween very seriously, so I’m not a fan of a thrown-together costume. I’d rather stay home than go out in an uninspired costume.” Here are some of the Halloween queen’s most ‘spooktacular’ costumes.
In her ripe old age
In 2013, Heidi stunned everyone by dressing up as a 95-year-old version of herself. This was the supermodel’s 14th annual Halloween bash, where she embraced her older self while still 40. She got into character sporting a white wig, a skirt suit, pearls and a cane. The look was perfection, boasting attention to detail with wrinkly prosthetics, a hunched spine, blue spider veins and aging spots on her body, created by make-up maestros Bill Corso and Mike Marino (the same guys behind Boardwalk Empire’s Black Swan look).
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The ‘pharoahest’ of them all
Heidi Klum was a glamorous, head-turning sight, dressed as Cleopatra at her 13th annual Halloween bash. Her face was jewel-encrusted with hundreds of coloured rhinestones as she wore a bold glittery gown with elephantine winged sleeves. She also donned a large black wig with dreadlocks topped with a golden head-piece with five ruby-eyed cobra heads hissing on it. Once again, Heidi was the centre of attention at her own party.
Of corpse she can
Is that a dead man? Yikes! No, it’s Heidi back as a skinless corpse, another one of Heidi’s outrageous and creepy looks. The supermodel had her body painted into a muscular skeleton, and donned yellow prosthetic teeth, red contact lenses and a bald head cap, outdoing fellow Halloween revellers. She’s one of the few female Hollywood celebrities who don’t shy away from the ‘unsexy’ look and we love it.
The robot reboot
In 2010, Heidi went all out again, dressed as an ultra-tall robotic superhero for her annual bash with her then-husband Seal. The ‘alien transformer’ costume was designed by Martin Izquierdo, who is known for creating the famous Victoria’s Secret angel wings. The make-up procedure took several hours as the model’s entire face was covered in purple glitter for the look. Although the outfit looks difficult and uncomfortable, the model said she was well-prepared to walk in the outfit, which had built-in stilts and had her towering at eight feet.
Heidi’s over-the-tops looks have everyone anticipating what she will dress up as this year. According to one keen observer, she might dress up as cartoon character Jessica Rabbit this year. What do you think?
For someone who has been in the fashion industry for less than five years, Zarlasht Faisal, owner of brand Zari Faisal has quickly shot to fame. She has been going places with her fashion label, quite literally, as after having established her presence at multi-designer store Ensemble in Dolmen Mall, she’s now making her way to Tariq Road with a pop-up store. She also has plans of stocking at Ensemble in the capital.
“It seems like I have a natural affiliation with Ensemble,” says Zarlasht about housing her collections at the store. “I opened my pop-up store there, where an entire section is now allocated for my clothes,” she adds. Zari Faisal’s offerings include bridal-wear, formal kurtas and scarves. With a passion for all-things fashion, Zarlasht felt motivated to make her products accessible for a greater audience. The designer is also foraying into footwear with a hand-painted chappals collection ready to go on sale online in about two weeks. Details of the project are being kept under wraps for now.
The brand aims at establishing its physical presence. “There are certain hurdles when it comes to Pakistani consumers. They want to feel the product in their hands before buying it. As we’re a small brand in the process of growing, we need to be innovative without breaking our backs,” she notes.
When the designer set foot in the industry in 2011, she used social forums as her prime source of communication with clients. “We’ve grown over time with the help of social media,” shares Zarlasht. She started off with photographs of six kurtis that she posted on Facebook for customised orders. With the social networking website as her launch pad, she initially handled all the details related to her brand herself and was driven to open a pop-up store in 2013, where she displayed her items for three days.
The Zari Faisal Facebook page has now been outsourced to a social media consultancy firm. Zarlasht says, “Previously, I used to handle social media on my own but now, I’ve outsourced it because I feel that keeps communication alive and gives the brand the boost it needs.”
Zarlasht holds Pakistan has a ‘fabulous’ fashion scene, which was her reason for venturing into the profession. With an all-girls design team of five, her brand is slowly but surely making its way on the fashion frontline. “Now that the team knows how to go about things the way I want them to, I just need to instruct them a bit and they do the rest.”
Zarlasht laments how many people these days go after big brands and even bigger price tags. “Big brands are associated with big logos on social media. This isn’t only happening locally but also globally. I have no problem with it but I feel it’s creating a gap between those who have money and those who don’t.”
But Zarlasht believes in making one’s own identity. “You should stick to your individual style. It’s not about logos, it’s about how you own and flaunt your style. A branded kurti can be paired with a bag purchased from any bazaar and you can still rock the look,” she says. “One needs to embrace one’s style and go with it as far as one’s comfortable with it.”
At the London Fashion Week, Yana Ngoba, Arunachal Pradesh designer, was accosted by inquisitive Europeans who were curious to know about the country of her origin. When she revealed that India was her motherland, they were taken aback as not a single sari, salwar kameez, anarkali was showcased. She primarily presented flowy gowns which had elements from the North East. The motifs, folklores, animal and plant life that was incorporated into her collection, was unknown to them. And Yana, in her quest to show them a window to the North East, was opening a new chapter for them.
The much neglected loin loom, which the world is yet to discover, was given special attention at the event. And seeing the favourable response, Yana would like to showcase loin loom at other platforms as well as the weaving involved in it is quite strenuous as compared to weaving on a frame loom.
Noting that loin loom is an ingeniously simple device, Yana says most of the parts are made from bamboo and wood. “The weaver sits on the floor and is assisted by another woman who goes back and forth with a bobbin of yarn, helping to build the entire length and width of the warp. The weaver separates the thread of the top layer from the bottom layer. The threads from under the shed stick are then strung with yarn heddles. Warp, shed and yarn heddles are made thread by thread.”
To create a better market for weavers, loin loom needs to be resuscitated. “It is used only in Arunachal Pradesh and Nagaland. Loin loom is too exhausting; one cannot weave for long duration. As a child I used to see my mother working on it and through her I learnt how to master the intricate process manually. It is done by women in a month or even three months depending on your concentration, speed and good knowledge of your design. The problem is women working on loin loom do not have financial support. To overcome these challenges, we are showcasing their work on foreign shores. Once the world gives them recognition, there would be an awakening here about the immense talent we are blessed with. It only needs to be nurtured, harnessed at the national level.”
Generating interest in loin loom was important to create interest among prospective buyers as they are not acclimatised about India.
The collection amply highlighted the unique motifs, colour patterns, silhouettes, weaving techniques and accessories of every north-eastern State. Since the design skills of each State are a visual treat, North East’s distinctness and its closeness to nature were amply highlighted. The outfits, accessories were eye-catching, absorbing as they communicated diverse stories, mythologies. “My collection is inspired by tribal accessories made of metals like copper, iron, brass, silver, bamboo and feather that signify our rich heritage and culture. Outfits are a reflection of hippie and bohemian look. Each handloom and jewellery item takes hours of detailing and emotions involved. They have a story behind them like a particular kind of headgear of Nagaland symbolises one’s family, power and status. My whole collection in London talked about our roots and I made them aware about how much time it takes to create a single piece of gale or wrap-on,” says Yana, who has been promoting authentic designs of tribes for almost two decades.
Sponsored by Arunachal Pradesh government, the off schedule show saw the fashion-loving crowd evincing interest in the painstaking process involved in the weaving process as on knowing the cultural background of each outfit and accessory. “So I was not just promoting my work but also giving a fillip to tourism, which badly needs a thrust in the right direction. Muga from Assam is used in sari; we can use it on the border but if we make them foreign buyers would get confused. Even in gowns we are showing diversity.”
Ironically, the designer is getting offers from New York Fashion Week and Paris Fashion Week but isyet to receive an invitation to participate in a major fashion event in her own country. She says finding a foothold in the national mainstream is difficult, more for someone working in a secluded corner of the country.
“Designers in Manipur, Nagaland, Mizoram, Assam and Tripura are a talented lot but they need government support.”
Unless you pricked your finger on a spindle and fell asleep in a tower for the past century, you will have noticed that Halloween is a pretty major deal these days. The days when autumnal party thrills meant catherine wheels and toffee apples are long gone, my friend: fireworks are over and ironic lolz are in. And yes, you need a costume. And no, that cat-ear headband you’ve had hanging around since Katy Perry wore one in 2013 will not cut it, because that was 2013 and modern Halloween is all about showing the world that you are up to speed on your internet memes. Essentially, this is where all those lunchtimes spent aimlessly sucking up clickbait pay off. Here are 13 (geddit!) ideas to get you started:
1. The dancing lady emoji
Everyone knows it’s all about the nail-painting emoji right now, but good luck with a costume for that one. You could go as the scream emoji, or the ghost with the Miley Cyrus tongue, but if there was an emoji that won 2015 it was, surely, the dancing lady in the red dress. And all you need is a red dress and, like, an iPhone.
2. Netflix & chill
Get a red T-shirt and write NETFLIX on it in a vaguely Graphique-esque font, add a bag of ice from the Spar and you, too, can be the most meta person at the party. Also, you have come to the party dressed as a ready-made hot conversational topic, because everyone has an opinion/anecdote as to whether Netflix & chill really is the new date night. Possibly the only costume that trumps N&C for meta-modernity is to come dressed as a Dead Guy Fawkes in homage to how Halloween killed Bonfire night.
3. Cecil the lion/Walter the dentist
How to be scary and universally loved in the same costume? Easy: Cecil the lion. This year’s cause célèbre, and easily achievable with a quick visit to the zoo gift shop for a mask and a fluffy tail. Even better, if you have a frenemy with whom you have a love-hate relationship, get them a white medical tunic, spatter it with fake blood and they can be Walter Palmer, the dentist. Boo, hiss.
4. Zayn Malik
If you don’t mind tramping all over a thousand teenage dreams in the name of cheap laughs, then the boy who broke the Directioners’ hearts back in March is this year’s alpha-male choice. Choose from: immediate post-split dyed green hair; or the ultimate bounceback Paris fashion week look of bleached-blond crop and a Louis Vuitton trophy jacket.
5. Brangelina and brood in the new American Vogue
Parenting can be tough but the moments of payback are worth it. For instance, in return for all the times you had to pick up bits of carrot from under the kitchen table, sometimes they don’t finish their spaghetti bolognaise and you get to help out. And then there is Halloween, when, as sweet payback for all those mornings tying shoelaces, you get to dress your kids up for your own amusement. This year, leave the pumpkins and skeletons for dust by dressing up en famille as Angelina, Brad and the Jolie-Pitt brood, as seen in the new issue of American Vogue. You may need to borrow a few kids to get the numbers up – Brangelina have six – but then all you need are a bunch of motorcycle helmets, some grey marl T-shirts, and intergenerational pouting.
6. Donald Trump
Yes, you could get a blue trousersuit and go as Hillary, but where’s the fun in that when you can go as a bona fide modern bogeyman with the most amazingly bad hair in history? Also, not only is Trump’s hair a pop-cultural phenomenon, the phenomenon of making fun of Trump’s hair is also a phenomenon, and Halloween is all about being meta this year. All you need: a toupee, or failing that, a very well-behaved guinea pig.
7. Rick Owens spring 2016 models
This was the year of #squadgoals. And yes, you and your friends could go as Taylor Swift, Gigi Hadid and the rest of the Bad Blood crew but why be so, like, obvious, when you could show how tight you and your BFF really are by going a deux as Rick Owens’s human backpacks? The Paris fashion week show – a celebration of female solidarity, according to the designer – can be easily reproduced with some nude underwear and those straps you use to keep luggage on a car roof rack. One for the fashion hardcore.
8. Iris Apfel
Karl Lagerfeld (82) is so over. The only snowy-haired fashion elder to dress as this year is 94-year-old Iris Apfel, star of her very own fashion documentary, Iris. Ingredients: outsize, owlish black specs; red lipstick, a really, really jazzy coat and as many boulder-sized bauble necklaces and clanking plastic bangles as you can pile on.
9. A sexy witch
Taking Halloween classics (witch/witch’s cat/devil) and making them into slutty costumes (stockings and suspenders/red corsets) was a thing until it became so over that even witless frat party kids started dressing as Katy Perry’s Left Shark instead. In fact, the sexy-witch costume is so completely over that it is a thing again, if done in an eye-rolling, “I’ve come as the bestselling Amazon sexy witch costume”, kind of a way. Wow, modern life is complicated, innit.
10. Taylor Swift and Calvin Harris
This year’s slay-em smug-married image: Taylor Swift and Calvin Harris announcing their relationship, by way of a giant swan on Instagram. The swimwear looks a bit chilly for the end of October, so maybe add a hoodie, but basically all you need is an inflatable swan and a pair of Ray-Bans. It’s Bianca Jagger on a white horse for a new party generation.
11. Jeremy ‘Fracas’ Clarkson
Clarkson’s allegedly hunger-induced outburst in March is one of this year’s top panto-baddy moments. Relive the glory with a large-check shirt, a quilted jacket, and by raiding the buffet table with gusto on arrival. Do not, however, actually punch anyone.
12. Margot Tenenbaum
Fourteen years after we saw and loved The Royal Tenenbaums, Margot is having a fashion moment with her quirky geek-chic look setting the pace on the catwalk once again. All you need for Margot’s look: a fur coat (manky is fine); a Fred Perry tennis dress; a red plastic hair clip in a severe side parting. (Margot also has a Birkin, but if you have a Birkin, you are best off keeping it in a safe, or at least an air-conditioned padded cupboard, rather than taking it to Halloween parties.)
13. Kim Kardashian’s Paper magazine cover
It is nearly a year since Kim broke the internet. I said nearly a year: the winter issue of Paper magazine came out in November last year, which means that this is the first Halloween since those photos. Funnily enough, it was the naked ones that got the most play – but for Halloween purposes, we suggest a black sequin gown, a pearl necklace, and perhaps a strategic sofa-cushion. Bring a bottle of prosecco and open on-camera. Voilà!.
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A leaf out of yet-to-release historical saga Bajirao Mastani found its way on the runway of Blenders Pride Fashion Tour 2015 here when designer Anju Modi painted a picture of opulence of the era through her collection.
Bollywood's 'Mastani' Deepika Padukone turned back the clock by taking on the warrior princess avatar to present a glimpse of her feminine side.
The actress walked on the ramp to the tunes of the film's newly launched song 'Deewani mastani' as the fashion tour kicked off here on Saturday with glitz and glamour. It will travel to other cities like Mumbai, Hyderabad and Kolkata.
Blenders Pride Fashion Tour 2015 collaborated with Eros International and Sanjay Leela Bhansali's Bajirao Mastani to present a fusion of rich legacy. And the song 'Deewani mastani' was also launched at the event with a preview of the track.
Larger than life, as grand it can get are the first few thoughts that stream into our minds with the visuals of the song, in which Deepika is seen declaring her love for Bajirao (played by Ranveer Singh) by dancing passionately.
Back to the fashion show, a ray of light seeping from jharokhas (projecting window) on the stage, which gave an impression of sunrise, set the pace for the show with live music and vocals entwined with rustic beats by MIDIval Punditz and Kutle Khan.
It was a blast from the past with models laying fashion statement from the era through elaborate head ornaments, dupatta on head, nose rings or hair bun adorned by garlands.
Soft colours with subtleness ruled the line with splashes of hues of white, yellow, pink, blue, red and gold. With a shimmer of mirror work, the range comprised layered ethnic attires like three piece lehenga choli, anarkalis, garara and flowy jacket.
The thing that caught attention was the intricate detailing on dupatta with floral works, embroidery and chikankari, giving an edgy historic twist to the range. The fabric ranges from velvet, silk, georgette with flowy quality that adds volume to the attire.
Modi's collection captured the atmosphere with its sheer brilliance as models came forth on the ramp, with ensembles that highlight influences of the traditional Marathi outfits and authentic Persian costumes. Each piece was a page from the book of history, illustrating the era.
Deepika looked every bit royal as she walked on the stage amidst loud cheers in a layered ensemble in shades of pink, red and yellow comprising of red lehenga adorned with floral prints and layered dupatta.
Deepika said: "This (Blenders Pride fashion Tour) is sort of where I started my career. We did shows in Delhi, Mumbai and Bengaluru. So, I'm excited and nervous."
The actress is creating waves with her look as Mastani in Bhansali's magnum opus Bajirao Mastani, which narrates the story of Maratha Peshwa Bajirao I, and his second wife Mastani. Ranveer and Deepika portray the title protagonists, while Priyanka Chopra plays Bajirao's first wife.
Deepika asserts that the whole team should be credited with and applauded for the character's look, and not just the actor.
"I have always believed that styling is very important in making a character look convincing. It is a team effort -- director's vision, team's hard work to bring it alive," Deepika said.
Modi asserts that the "costumes imbibe different characteristics of the characters".
"I have recreated the whole era by thinking about the costumes. It was a challenge as there was very limited reference material," Modi said.
There were some hiccups like the venue's audience surpassing its seating capacity as half of the attendees were seen standing during the entire duration of the show or delay in starting the show. One of the audience members, who had come for the show that started three hours late, was heard exclaiming "show is tomorrow and we have come a day before".
One of the models also stumbled while walking the ramp, on another occasion Deepika, who carved a place for herself in the world of modelling before taking over Bollywood, also lost her balance while twirling in her heavy attire.
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A 47-year-old Iowa-raised designer might seem like an unlikely candidate for overnight success in Japan, but the country's long-running love affair with classic American style has turned Todd Snyder into a fashion heavyweight.
Japan's fondness for American fashion has seen Snyder open three stores in the country in less than two years, and sparked a creative boom.
A new generation of designers are now adapting US staples like denim and plaid to produce collections with a Japanese spin, building a global fan base in the process.
The story of American fashion in Japan began with Kensuke Ishizu, whose 1951 brand VAN revolutionised youth culture in the Asian nation, popularising styles worn by college students across the East Coast of the US.
Thanks to Ishizu, oxford shirts, slim trousers and other preppy staples became the uniform of choice for Japanese men after World War Two as the domestic fashion industry grew rapidly, influenced by American style.
"The Japanese are the ultimate students, they analyse things in so much detail... until they have pretty much mastered whatever they are studying," Nick Wooster, former director of men's fashion at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus, told AFP.
Tokyo's tiny boutiques are a treasure trove for collectors -- including many from overseas -- who stockpile vintage American clothing, from old-school Ivy-League university sweatshirts to weathered canvas totes.
"At this point, the Japanese probably understand American classics better than Americans do," Wooster told AFP.
It's a view borne out by the expansion of Japan's denim industry, with even US designers like Snyder choosing to source the fabric from mills based in the country.
Yuji Takahashi, men's and sports wear buyer for Japanese retail giant, Isetan, credits the country's denim manufacturers for their craftsmanship and their openness to design experiments.
"Denim manufacturers are so passionate about creating new products and breaking the norm. This really encourages designers... and together, they are able to create new products that could not have been produced anywhere else," Takahashi told AFP.
Japanese labels like Visvim and Mihara Yasuhiro create denim and plaid designs featuring hand-stitched patchwork, pleated bibs and delicate, frayed edges.
Their efforts at elevating the durable fabric to couture status are paying off, with leading stores like Barney's in New York and Browns in London selling their collections.
- Vintage on the runway -
For US designer Snyder, who has made several trips to Japan over the last two decades -- mainly to scout American vintage products -- the country offers opportunities for inspiration and expansion.
"They care so deeply about making things by hand, it's always moving to meet our manufacturers because you can see the respect they have for the process," Snyder told AFP after his show opened Tokyo Fashion Week on Monday.
In a nod to his audience's sensibilities, Snyder dressed his models in ensembles that paired his designs with vintage clothing ranging from paint-splattered trousers to dirt-stained shorts.
"I didn't use vintage at my New York show, I don't think they would appreciate it there," he said.
"People here really care about authenticity... it's not just about chasing the next new thing, it's about valuing where things come from and the story behind them," he said.
Yasuhiro Mihara, the designer behind his eponymous label, told AFP after his show he had originally studied fine arts before turning to fashion.
"I never wanted to create sculptures or paintings (that belonged in a museum)... I knew I did not want to create anything that people could not touch with their own hands," he said.
He added that he preferred to work with denim and other durable fabrics because they age with wear, changing in appearance as time passes.
"In Japan, we find beauty in things that wither away. Denim fades with wear, but does not lose its appeal, rather, it becomes more beautiful."
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